Stage 7 Blue Bell Hill to Lenham (17 miles) - neolithic burials, a medieval castle and more busy roads

I am beginning to dislike the Pilgrim's Way. The North Downs Way is fine; it is a great walk when it sticks to the top of the ridge or follows the contours around its slopes. However, it has a habit of dropping to the valley floor and taking a route along the Pilgrim's Way. I admit that I started this journey wanting to follow the Pilgrim's Way, because of its history, but now after more than 80 miles walked I have started to loathe the monotony that is the Pilgrim's Way. The modern Pilgrim's equivalent of wearing a hair shirt I suppose.

The Pilgrim's Way that survives today is either a tarmac road or an unsurfaced byway open to motorised traffic generally running in very straight lines. Apart from the tedium and the hard pounding on the feet, the byways are used by vehicular traffic leaving them riddled with water filled potholes and, for the walker, the constant danger of being knocked down by a speeding vehicle. Not that I have seen many motorised vehicles, in fact only a few, but those that I have seen have shown little empathy for a pedestrian with little room to get out of their way.

The Pilgrim's Way also sits at the bottom of the North Downs and the North Downs Way's preferred route is, naturally enough, on top of the North Downs. So, each time I head downhill to the Pilgrim's Way I know that I will be regretting the loss of altitude later in the day.

There was a lot of the Pilgrim's Way today and the weather was not kind. Miserable even. A strong and cold southerly wind blowing fine but very wet drizzle in from the side as I am travelling East. I suppose I should be grateful from the shelter that the hedges of the Pilgrim's Way gave me. Today's photographs are consequently rather lacking in decent lighting.

The Pilgrim's Way, long and straight with little room for escape

I set off from the Blue Bell Hill picnic site after a vehicular drop off and realised that I missed talking about the prominent memorial stone in the car park. This is a large stone dedicated to the memories of the three man crew of an air ambulance who died when their helicopter crashed nearby in July 1998.

Memorial stone at Blue Bell Hill

Shortly after leaving the car park and negotiating around the numerous busy motorways and dual carriage ways in that area the route passes Kit's Coty House.

Kit's Coty House

Needless to say, this is not a house. It is a well preserved example of a stone chamber which once formed the entrance to a barrow or burial mound built in Neolithic times (4,800 - 5,500 years ago). I have to say that I am a little sceptical myself, the stones may well be original but this looks distinctly like a Victorian Folly to me. However, English Heritage claim that this is original and would have formed the entrance to a mound of earth and chalk dug out from ditches nearby. Apparently the ditches are still visible from the air. There would have been more stones, and these may still be buried in the field. Kits Coty gets its name from an association with a Celtic leader called Catigern (Kit) who died in a battle with the Saxons in 450AD, thousands of years later than the true origin of the stones.

Just around the corner from Kit's Coty is another large stone. The White Horse stone, after the 5th Century Saxon warlord, Horsa. However, this too is believed to be part of a Neolithic burial chamber laid down thousands of years prior to Horsa.

White Horse Stone

The trees around this stone were decorated with strips of cloth; Druids? This stone has been the subject of controversy in recent years after Orange applied to build a telephone mast within a few metres of the stone in 2004. This and a subsequent proposal were thankfully rejected by local planning committees on the basis that it would be an unsightly intrusion in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (I have heavily paraphrased that).

My complaints about the roads in the area and along the route in general were proved to be justified when I got to Detling. Here the A249, a busy dual carriage way built in 1962 linking two motorways, cuts the village in half. Quite bizarrely the planners and builders of the road made no provision for a crossing for the villagers. In the 1960s no doubt the road was quiet by today's standards but now it is anything but. As you approach the road you cannot miss the huge footbridge that now climbs and crosses the road. This is Jade's Crossing, named after Jade Hobbs aged 8 who was killed along with her Grandmother whilst crossing the road in December 2000. This wasn't the first tragedy, two others had died in similar circumstances in 1974 and 1986; Jade was however the first child and that seemed to galvanise the community to do something about the issue themselves in the absence of any official recognition of the dangers. The footbridge was opened in 2002 having been paid for by public subscription.

Jade's Crossing at Detling on the A249

As if to add insult to injury there is a memorial plaque explaining the above with a collection box to continue with the fund for other needy crossing points. I donated a pound only to find that round the back of the collection chamber the collection box has been partly chiseled out of the wall exposing its contents. Unfortunately, my hands were too big to retrieve my coin; I suspect the work of thieves with small hands and I doubt my well earned cash will be building any bridges.

Memorial to Jade Hobbs, Detling

Scum bags...

Having been saddened by the tale of the road crossing and feeling somewhat ripped off to the tune of a pound I was pleased to find that the other side of Detling was very welcoming with a handy bench seat next to an RAF war memorial. RAF Detling was a Spitfire base during WW2, no doubt playing a critical role in the Battle of Britain, closing in 1959. It is now a showground and hosts the annual Kent County Show.

Memorial to RAF Detling

Detling, The Cock Horse and Raf Memorial and bench seat mid left

Detling also had a very fine gateway to an old Tudor resting house for Pilgrims on the Pilgrim's Way. This marked the start of one of those long, boring, trudge sections for me.

Tudor Gateway at Detling on the Pilgrim's Way

This is typically Tudor, with its ornate brickwork similar to that seen at Hampton Court Palace. This is all that remains of the resting house that once stood behind it. Strange that the gateway survives but the house does not.

Shortly after Detling I took a short detour off the route, uphill, to visit to the remains of Thurnham Castle. This is thought to date back to the 11th Century, originally built by Bishop Odo of Bayeux who was William the Conqueror's brother. It had a commanding position on the top of the ridge overlooking the Weald of Kent and consisted of a circular earthwork and ditch with a bailey within. By 1540 it was a ruin and later chalk quarrying put it at risk of disappearing altogether until Kent County Council began a project to conserve it 1999. There is very little left now, just a few remnants of walls. I have not included any photographs here, because in the dwindling light there really was not much to look at.

Further along the Pilgrim's Way I was further cheered by some appropriate and recent artwork in the form of Brother Percival. I sat next to him for a while for a snack and a drink; I think he was asleep.

Brother Percival on the Pilgrim's Way

I headed off the Pilgrim's Way into Lenham at about 3:30 and made my way to the station to get the train home. The train worked well for me, changing at Bromley South and getting home at about 5:30.

Now, the next two stages are Lenham to Chilham and Chilham to Canterbury at 15 and 9 miles respectively. For logistical reasons I have decided to combine them into one long stage. It will be a long one but with an early start and cafe stop in Chilham (Shelly's tea room, please be open) it will be a good challenge. From Canterbury it is then only two stages to Dover and the plan is to complete the rest of the walk from Lenham in one Campervan supported trip. No date set yet, depends on the availability of my support crew.

AW

Stage 6 Wrotham to Blue Bell Hill (16 miles) - crossing the Medway

Despite dressing for the forecast of strong and cold winds I was today sweltering in spring-like warmth. Leaving Wrotham after a 0900 drop off I walked past St George's Church, believed to be one of the first in England to be dedicated to our patron saint. I noticed that there were some war graves in the church yard and went in to examine them closer. There are 5 of them, 4 from the first world war and one from the second, including one from the RAF from 1918. I am curious why they are here in Wrotham, was there a hospital nearby, I wonder? Sergeant E. C. Hood of the RAF was from 40th Training Depot Station which was in what is now South East Croydon, less than 20 miles away by air; a crash during training perhaps?

Today's cafe stop was a bit of a guilty pleasure because the only opportunity was only a mile and a half in. This was the visitor centre at Trossley Country Park. I was their first customer after opening at 9:30 and, given by the choices, I suspect the daily cake delivery was yet to arrive. Not to worry though, I had a delicious slice of apple pie, which would not have been my first choice given a wider selection, but it didn't disappoint.

Trossley Park Visitor Centre

The visitor centre is an award winning eco-friendly building constructed from the park's own Sweet Chestnut timber. It has a water recycling system, natural ventilation (gaps in the windows and doors? I have lived in a few houses like that) and a living green roof.

The walking here was easy going along the top of the downs ridge in the now familiar woodland of mixed deciduous and the occasional Yew trees and I shared the route with usual variety of dogs and dog walkers.

North Downs Way or "E2"

 For the first time on the route I spotted the European Union sign "E2" on a finger post way marker. I now understand that this designates a Pan European long distance footpath with E2 creating a 3010 mile footpath that is intended to run from Galway in Ireland to France's Mediterranean coast and currently runs through Northern Ireland, Scotland, England, Belgium, Luxembourg and France. It takes in the West Highland Way, the Pennine Way, the North Downs Way and others. I like the idea but who would walk such a path, or is that not the point?

There was clear evidence of the management of the woodlands with felled timber at the side of the track awaiting collection. I fully appreciate the need to manage the timber for the benefit of the woodland and its wildlife. However, I do not appreciate the damage the vehicles have done to the track and the unhelpful signs instructing me that I am to stay on the track when said track is now knee deep in mud.

Timber awaiting collection

Stay on the Path? You are joking, right?

Knee deep may be an exaggeration as I did not intend to test the depth, which reminds me of a tea mug that one of my old work colleagues used to have "I am always in the s..t, only the depth varies". Needless to say that I wandered off the path and bushwhacked through the woods avoiding the slurry pit. Sorry Mr Landowner but if you want me to walk responsibly you have to fulfil your responsibility too. I assume the signs were there to keep me safe during logging operations however there were no such operations in progress today.

At a small hamlet called Upper Bush I passed the third of the milestones informing me that I am now over halfway to Dover. I wanted the mid-way point to be where I crossed the River Medway in order to make a catchy title but it wasn't to be (mid-way over the Medway?).

Milestone number 3

I have come to the rather belated but perhaps obvious (had I thought about it sooner) conclusion that the whole route will be dominated by motorways or busy dual carriage ways at best. There is no let up; this is not a wilderness walk. But lets enjoy the countryside and the engineering. Today's engineering feat was in the form of the Medway Crossing where the M2 motorway and the High Speed Rail link from Europe to St Pancras (HS1) cross the River Medway. It is quite a sight, or an eyesore depending on your outlook. I found it quite a wonder to look at but walking across on the service road, 116 feet above the murky tidal waters of the river, was purgatory.

The Medway Crossing of the M2 and HS1

There are in fact 3 bridges here. The first was a single motorway bridge built in 1963 which was joined by a second road and a rail bridge in 2003. The footpath is on the service road of the South East bound M2, separated from the 70 mph traffic by a simple steel mesh fence. It is deafeningly loud and hard on the feet. There are signs advertising the services of The Samaritans and the occasional bunch of dead and dried flowers tied to the railings marking someones demise, as if to keep you moving forward. Despite the views of Rochester to my left I was very glad to get off it.

The footpath and service road across the Medway

Thankfully I did not have a train pass whilst I was on the bridge. A plaque on the northern side commemorated the UK rail speed record of 208 mph which was made here in 2003.

View from the Medway Crossing

At the southern end of the bridge the route passes over Borstal, a village, now part of Rohcester and home to the first prison for young offenders established in 1908 and still serving a similar function today as HMP Rochetser. The prison was built on one of those Victorian forts that we passed on stage 3 at Reigate.

Just as with  sections of the NDW in Surrey, managed by Surrey Wildlife Trust I am now seeing large tracts of chalk grassland being managed by Kent Wildlife Trust. One such area is Nashenden Down Nature Reserve where they are creating 90 acres of new chalk grassland, presumably by rescuing it from years of intensive agriculture and returning it to a "natural", albeit highly managed, state.

Blue Bell Hill picnic site is a similarly managed chalk grassland area and served very well as my rendezvous and pick up point.

Blue Bell Hill picnic site

 Next up is Blue Bell Hill to Lenham which I hope to do on Wednesday 22nd, transport willing.


 AW

Stage 5 Westerham to Wrotham (15 miles) - Tea Loaf in the Pond View Cafe

I missed out a week on doing a stage because the weather just too inclement. This week I was determined to get out despite a poor forecast. So it was that I set off from Westerham in cold fog and fine drizzle without much prospect of improvement. There were not going to be any fine views today. I was also armed (legged?) with gaiters from the off, as whilst today was going to be cold it wasn't freezing and the ground was going to be well and truly muddy, and the mud on the NDW is very sticky indeed.

A stile near Knockholt Pound, not much to see here.

 The route passes Chevening and Chevening House. This is a 115-room mansion, in a 3,500 acre  estate. It is a three-storey, symmetrical red brick structure in the English Renaissance style. It may have been designed by 17th-century British architect Inigo Jones. Staying there as a guest in 1911, the former Prime Minister Lord Rosebery crossed out "Chevening" at the head of a piece of writing paper and substituted "Paradise".  The house was the family seat of the Earls Stanhope, and was bequeathed to the Nation by the 7th and last Earl Stanhope. The Chevening Estate Act of 1959 stipulated that the future resident should be the Prime Minister, a Cabinet Minister, the widow or lineal descendant of King George VI, or the spouse, widow or widower of such a descendant. Today it is a rather nice country pile for David Davis (Secretary of State for Leaving the European Union), Liam Fox (Secretary of State for International Trade) and  Boris Johnson (Foreign Secretary) when hosting official events. As a result it has acquired the nickname Brexit Towers. [Wikipedia (10/02/2017)]

A bench looking down an avenue of trees (the Chevening Keyhole) on the Chevening estate.

This bench is a memorial to Rowland Oakeley who was the founder of the Footpaths Section of the Sevenoaks Society, leader of 234 walks between 1971 and 1982, and author of the first four volumes of the Society's walks booklets. A special walk was held in July 2014 to dedicate the bench. Some 30 walkers celebrated with champagne, and the tape was cut by Rowland’s son Dr Henry Oakeley. Pity I missed that.

I could just about make out the large stately home through the fog in the valley below but attempts to capture it in my camera were futile. Given the nature of its inhabitants I was also expecting to be snatched at any moment by a heavily armed and camouflaged police officer possibly lurking in the bushes.

Having then walked down Star Hill, off the downs and into the Darent Valley, I met up again with the M25. This time the path joins a road the footpath of which is a mere 10 metres from the inside lane separated by a small strip of woodland. It was here in this woodland that I spotted today's fascinating discard. You may recall that on the last stage it was smoked salmon and Thomas the Tank Engine Wellies. Today it was Nitrous Oxide gas cylinders, about 5 of them. The sort of gas cylinders that have become fashionable amongst those seeking chemical based thrills and with a lust for risk. There have been a spate of thefts of such cylinders from hospitals throughout the UK and Kent is no exception. Yes, I have reported them to the police but I was left wondering why I bothered when I got the impression that they would treat it as an act of fly tipping rather than recovery of stolen goods (and administering of a noxious substance, supply of illicit drugs etc) for forensic analysis. Hopefully, someone at Kent Police will see the significance when it pops up on their screen.

There then followed some road walking and along part of the Darent Valley path to the village of Otford where I had been promised a choice of tea rooms. The problem with winter walking and going into civilised tea rooms is that my boots were by now well caked with the finest of local clay. I passed the first establishment on the basis that it had a carpeted floor but was pleased to see that the second one had a laminate floor and a large and very effective door mat on which to at least attempt to clean my boots. This was the Pond View Cafe overlooking the village pond and duck house. Capuchino and Tea Loaf. When I enquired about the recipe for the tea loaf, expecting it to be a family secret I was offered the opportunity to assist in the production of the next batch! I don't think the proprietor was joking. A very nice cafe with a fine view, very friendly owner and a good menu. They did omelettes - I think any cafe that does freshly made omelettes has a good menu.

Pond View Cafe (on the right), Otford.

Unfortunately I missed Uranus on the way in to Otford, I was so intent on finding that cafe. Apparently, there is a representation of the planets in our solar system, as aligned at 00:01 on 1st January 2000, on a scale of 1:5 billion with Uranus represented by a concrete pillar on the route as I entered the village. The sun is 649 metres away on the recreation ground.

This part of Kent, being not that far from London has many large country piles and next up was Otford Manor. This is not very old, built in the 1930s for one of the Lyle family as in Tate and Lyle. I guess it was close by the treacle mines. It is now owned by Oak Hall who organise Christian Holidays and bible study groups.

By now it was lunchtime and as I know this area reasonably well I already had a particular bench in mind for my lunch stop. I was planning to sit on the top of Kemsing Down chalk grassland overlooking the village of Kemsing. However, my plan was thwarted by a fence between the NDW path and my bench. Clearly that bench is only meant for use of people following the path though and from the village as I have done many times. I thought for a moment of climbing the fence but thought better of it; its there for a reason and I should respect that. Luckily, I shortly found a felled tree stump that served well as seat and table.

Just after lunch I came across the second milestone. This one was curious because it was only in miles; the Km appear to have been very neatly chiseled off. I hope this was because of some schoolboy error in the conversion from miles rather than some Euro phobic prejudice against kilometres.

The second milestone

The second milestone, no metric please we're British.

The good news is that I am now about half way along the route from Farnham to Dover.

The route now joins the Pilgrim's way along a track open to walkers, horses, bicycles, motorbikes and cars, although the track is only one car width wide. I saw plenty of evidence of the four wheel drive enthusiasts enjoying this off-road opportunity in the form of discarded cans and bottles and churned up soil. Thirsty work this driving off road. I also met today's top dog walker; Jemima was a small Scottish terrier type, refusing to fetch his / her ball, preferring to sniff my legs instead. Jemima had an interesting friend in the form of another terrier in a push chair being wheeled along by it's keeper. Jemima's friend seemed happy enough in the perambulator and barked as I went past, showing no sign of giving up his / her privileged position.

The Pilgrim's way took me all the way to Wrotham and my lift home. Wrotham is (or maybe was) a quiet little market town along the pilgrims way. It is now wedged between the M20, M26 and the A20 and the market has long since ceased to be.

Next week I hope to walk from Wrotham to Blue Bell Hill (and across the river Medway and the M2).

Snow drops in the woods on the right

Wooden cross near Otford Manor, not far from the Pilgrim's Way

Nearly time to harvest the wool trees