Stage 8 Lenham to Canterbury (24 miles) - away from the roads and into the wood

Today was going to be a long day. By combining two stages into one, getting to the start by train and picking a day with the worst weather forecast for a while I set myself up for quite a challenge.

The Lenham Memorial Cross

 Having left home at 6:45am and arrived in Lenham at 8:30am I was ready for a break and a feed shortly after leaving the outskirts of Lenham. The town memorial cross cut into the local chalk with its fenced garden and seat provided just the spot for an early break. This cross was constructed in 1922 in memory of the fallen of the First World War. It had to be grassed over to prevent it being a navigational aid for the visiting Luftwaffe in the 2nd World War and had further names added for the fallen of that conflict when it was later restored.

There is an alternative path just beyond the outskirts of Lenham, taking in the remains of the local chalk mines / quarry which are now home to a protected species of snail called the Roman Snail; probably because it was introduced by the Romans? This snail needs to be protected from those who wish to eat it, including those Michelin starred chefs in their fancy restaurants. I have to admit that in the past I have eaten common garden snails from my own garden and were the Roman snails not protected I would definitely want to try them too as they are larger. As a culinary experiment the garden snails were a success but the fact that I only did this twice and I have no desire to do it again should say enough. Today the snails were still in their winter hibernation and I did not see a single one.

Spring on the North Downs Way

 Having done the majority of this walk in the winter months there was a definite feel of spring today with many spring flowers in evidence. There were Primroses, Cowslips and Wood Anemone in abundance. I even saw a couple of rabbits squaring up to each other in the middle of the road.

Spring Rabbits

Some might say that I have become obsessed with way markers. They are too few in numbers, in the wrong place, too many to take the fun out of navigation, too old and illegible but today I came across a Grand Randonee sign post. Not a way marker, definitely a sign post. The sign says that the North Downs Way is a Grand Randonee or GR. This is very strange as the GR routes are long distance footpaths in France. Yes, the NDW is part of the European footpath network and has its own designation of E2 but surely it is not a GR - because it is not in France. Now, living in the south east of England, as I do, I know that I buy my electricity from France (EDF), I travelled today on a Southeastern Train which is 35% owned by French state rail and I regularly pay tolls to cross the Thames at Dartford now owned by SANEF a French motorway company. However, I draw the line at being told that my footpaths are now GR routes!  Go away, we already have one.

Grand Randonee sign...?

By lunchtime the forecast rain had turned up earlier than expected and I was looking for a suitably sheltered spot to dine when I walked past All Saints Church at Boughton Aluph. I was keen not to miss this church as this was the last overnight stop for Pilgrims on their way to Canterbury and their is apparently a fireplace in the porch to give them warmth as well as shelter. This was also the place Pilgrims used to gather in order to cross the upcoming Kings Wood in larger groups, affording them some protection from the robbers who stalked them there. So it was appropriate that in the pouring rain I was very pleased to see some beautifully carved seats beneath a huge overhanging Yew tree in the church yard and I took advantage of having lunch here. Sadly, there was no welcoming fire to warm me today as both porches were locked. There were also Portaloos in one corner of the church yard, which I could well have done with but these too were padlocked shut.

Kings Wood is one of the largest woodlands in Kent at 1,500 acres and the NDW crosses it for 2 miles. It is a splendid bit of woodland and I could see that in a couple of months time it would be carpeted with bluebells. I made a note to come back here in May with my camera. I took no pictures today as my camera was tucked away in the rucksac away from the deluge that was now upon me.

The cafe stop was all important today, much more than just a mere indulgence of other stages. At the 16 mile mark with 9 miles to go I was relying on Shelly's at Chilham to sustain me until Canterbury. Thankfully, Shelly's did not disappoint. No French influence here; cream tea, Earl Grey, Victoria Sponge, bacon sandwhich, beans on toast. I just had the beans on toast with a pot of Early Grey. Very hospitable, despite my best impression of a drowned rat.

Pilgrim Milestone by Steven Andrews

The village of Chilham is quite famous. Due to its abundance of historical buildings it has been used as a film set a number of times including for an episode of Poirot including fake snow. In the picture above is a wooden sculpture of pilgrims and in the background you can see Shelly's Tea Room with the blue oval sign.

There then followed a fairly uneventful walk into Canterbury. Uneventful, apart from a chance encounter with only the second person I had met on the path today. I had a charming conversation with a gentleman who was just out for a walk from a nearby village. I say gentleman deliberately because he must have been about 90 years old, wearing a shirt and tie and smart jacket. We chatted for abut 10 minutes about walking (he had walked The West Highland Way and St Cuthberts Way but not the NDW) and how surprising / sad it was that I had only seen two people in 20 miles of walking. By now it was getting late and I was keen to get on and so I had to cut the conversation short but I hope I brightened his walk a little as he had brightened mine.

Canterbury was surprisingly quiet at 5:30pm as I walked past the Cathedral gate. I did not stop to take a photo but I wish I had as it was deserted. I am not sure if that desertion was normal for that time of day or whether it was a reaction to events in London earlier in the afternoon, of which I was oblivious at this time. I did notice an occupied Police car blocking one of the side roads and I wondered what it was doing there.

Strangely, I have never seen Canterbury Cathedral despite visiting Canterbury a number of times and indeed walking past it today. It is hidden behind a gate and other buildings. I was promised a view of it today from Kings Wood but the cloud spoiled that. One day I will have to pay the extortionate fee and go beyond the gate.

I arrived in camp at just after 6:00pm to be met with a welcome mug of tea.

We had the next day off and walked into Canterbury to have lunch at the Goods Shed and  take advantage of the market there to provision for the next few days.

Canterbury's West Gate

Cathedral Gate, the entrance to the Cathedral

Chaucer's Canterbury Tales in sculpture

 All in all Lenham to Canterbury was a fine walk. Only one major road in the A2 and that was a mere country lane compared with the multi-lane highways of previous stages.

AW